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One of the best surprises of the past year for me was the splendid setting for our BNO Year-end III last month, which was the Green Hills Country Club in Millbrae, CA.

BNO Year-End I was in 2006 at the Ritz-Carlton in Lake Las Vegas, well before all the foreclosures, while BNO Year-End II was held last year at 231 Ellsworth in San Mateo.

The newly renovated clubhouse that recalls understated California mission-style architecture costs a cool $20 million, a lavish sum for a small, private country club whose main amenity is the historic Alister Mackenzie golf course built in the 1930s. Large windows with sweeping views of the scenic fairway frame its banquet hall and bar lounge. We inaugurated the clubhouse with our magnificent dinner specially prepared by the new chef, Wolfgang Weber.

I love the rustic presentation of the prawn risotto

Rack of lamb? This was more like lamb chops! So meaty and juicy

The menu for the evening was as expansive as the fairway, especially the appetizer portion, which I totally missed, as I worked long hours during the holidays. But the real travesty was I missed the Champagne toast of the 1990 Krug! You see, Krug is my favorite Champagne. I only heard rumors later that it was almost perfection. Kevin declared it 4.5/5 and says “Krug 90-deep, rich smoky-developed colour-lots of backbone and acidity-terrific champ but one almost expects more given the tribute one pays for this over the multi vintage which I usually prefer when blessed with opportunity to taste side by side--lacking that creaminess one gets and wants from an older champ of breed-still great champ”.

As a side note, I propose that all BNO Champagnes should be in magnums, henceforth, so there would be plenty left. Events like this should inspire any wine lover to start collecting magnums now. Don’t let your cellar be magnum-less!

Fortunately, I arrived in time for the extraordinary, velvety-textured foamed potato soup topped with leeks and infused with white truffle oil. Wow, what a great way to start the meal! Soups are so underrated!

While slurping the soup, I got busy catching up on the reds. But wait, where was the 1999 Bouchard Montrachet?! Ah, again I just have to savor Kevin's notes: "99 bouchard montrachet Touch of lanolin fat, oaky, good and on the fringe of harmony-very austere and lean-difficult to judge showing so little not sure where this is going (***)*?"

So in front of me poured and ready were the oldest reds of the night—why we were pouring the oldest wines first, especially in front of young, blockbuster New World reds to follow, I don't know why. But, hey, I have the 1967 Napa Cask Cabernet Sauvignon Inglenook in one glass and in another the 1958 California Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve Louis Martini, which is regarded by people in the know as one of the best California Cabernets ever conceived, so who am I to whine?

The Inglenook showed a bright ruby glint, with a funkless nose of dried leaves and licorice. It had grip and was juicy, with elegant earthy, red currant flavors that were delicate yet intense. So mature and fresh, it was a pleasure to drink. I give it a B+. Kevin thought: "67 -Inglenook cask cab Low neck high fill Surprisngly dark firm-could have been 20 year old not 40-lots of nice cab cassis low oak flavors-held up well in the glass-last minute sub-Steve said he was bringing the 58 martini and remembered I had the 60 inglenook and thought would be fun-couldnt find it at the last minute but saw this nice fill and threw in-much better than I expected-and kept up for a long time in the glass ***+ 1/2*" (Hey, Kevin, I think we killed that 60 Inglenook in a previous dinner, unless you're hoarding another bottle!)

Getting on to the 1958 Louis Martini I felt a bit apprehensive. It is from my birth year and it came from the most impeccable cellar I know. Steve and I have planned on opening this bottle numerous times but always didn't follow through—there never seemed to be the right occasion to open it. So the bottle has taken on a hallowed image in my mind; that it’s finally uncorked and its last pour in the glass in my hand felt like a dream. Velvety and effortless, filling the mouth with sumptuous flavors of cherries, sweet cassis, coffee, spice, dried leaves, and rust. Concentrated, fleshy, and still so youthful. "Where can you buy a case of this?" said Matt. A- for me. For Kevin, "58 Martini cab Understated lovely fruit fragrant Idiosyncratic martini from pre 70 meaning for me silky sweet on nose very mature colour starting to fade a bit of course fading ever so gracefully like all great well made reds into something oh so yummy ****"

With the 1982 Lafite-Rothschild the full glory of a great Bordeaux was upon us. Dark ruby color with an intense bouquet of currants, rose petals, cedar, and rare steak. Spectacular depth. Dark concentrated flavors of crème de cassis and chocolates plus layers of spice. Focused and long. Though fat, especially for a Lafite, it is not excessive; everything just seems to be in the right proportion and heading relentlessly in the same direction. Maximum A. For Kevin, "82 lafitte Deep still young fruit tea cedar Very intense- a lot of wine in a tight package-goes on and on Fleshy for Lafitte balance there Full spectrum complexity Seamless *****"

An interesting follow-up to the Lafite was another Pauillac, the 1964 Pichon-Lalande. Out of character, yet surprisingly very pleasurable. One expects Pichon-Lalande to be demure, but this is an aggressive, forceful wine. Heady earthy, licorice flavors permeate the palate. The color is still deep crimson. The wine softens and integrates with airing, with the fruit turning more sweetly seductive. But the rawness remained and the powerful finish felt coarse. I enjoyed this wild, energetic side of Pichon-Lalande, so B+ for me. Kevin’s notes: “64 pichon lalande longeville Soft mature cedar fragrant lovely Bordeaux Strain the imagination to get more notes *** 1/2 to ****”

These four reds dominated the evening for me and so my attention span for the other reds that followed was short. The switch to the powerful, dense, overripe, and very oaky 1998 Penfolds Grange was jarring. Kevin’s view: “98 grange hermitage Plummy very oaky-could have been a cab franc with a lot of oak-tasty still but not going to far and not in same class as other vintages I didn't get good notes on this (***)”

More enjoyable for me was the 1982 Penfolds Grange with its powerful, elegant fruit, suffused with red berries, cherry liqueur, herbs, and oak. B+ and I seem to be in accord with Kevin: “82 Grange Hermitage Sweet bouquet almost too sweet, figgy Then it settled down-nice weight texture acidity, toasty at the end Not exciting but a great drink-drink pretty soon ****”

Sadly, I couldn't get past the super-concentrated, strangely medicinal, oaky flavors of the 1998 Harlan Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Kevin says: “98 Harlan First hour hard to drink bc of stemmy too young fruit at first I confused with VA More of a vintage problem and selection at time of harvest issue me thinks Won't age bc of it But I enjoyed it 2 hour in for the spector of what this class of fruit could be like in a different vintage (No rating)”

I took a small sip of the 1997 Fisher Wedding Cuvée Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon and immediately liked it. It was soft, dense, and packed with ripe blackberries; simple, yet it has very good palate presence. While Parker is a touch more aggressive at 99/100, it was a satisfying B for me. Kevin seems to concur: “Lovely plump fruit delicious Don't expect complexity just enjoy the fruit *** 1/2*”

The after-dinner drinks started with a couple of surprise half-bottles that we had to guess. Both showed a deep gold color, with one darker than the other. I sniffed at the first one, which was the paler of the two, and its botrytis was evident. Its flavors hinted of poached pears and honey; sweet, medium-rich, and quite vibrant; the flavors lingering elegantly and fading very slowly. I was sure it was Sauternes. And so it turned out to be the 1985 Chateau d’Yquem. I’ve previously enjoyed this vintage several years ago at an Yquem vertical. It was a most unusual vintage because the harvest lasted over two months, the longest ever for Yquem, starting mid-October through late December, involving several passes until each berry was suitably shriveled. It was a beautifully subtle Yquem, so vivid and pure. At this time it was drinking perfectly. A-

The other wine, darker in color, displayed similar botrytised qualities with greater oxidation. It had wilder, funky scents of wet earth, rust, rotting leaves, and citrus peel. On the palate it was cleaner and tasted like a dollop of syrupy orange marmalade. I thought it was a much older wine than the first one, but it turned out to be a 1998 Saint-Croix-du-Mont, whose producer I forgot to write down. C.

Finally, with a selection of cheeses and pears poached in red wine, we lit up cigars and opened up the Ports. Actually, the 1963 Taylor Vintage Port was cracked during the dinner using Port tongs. Suitably decanted this showed well with its luscious, palate-coating, sweet fruit, yet it somewhat lacks the Taylor grip. Not great, especially for Taylor, but a gorgeous Port nevertheless. B+. For Kevin: "Rich lithesome great power-too damn young but lots of fun at the end of a dinner as a pick me upper-licorice and good weight and very intense Needs some time (-hard to read my notes at this point-starting to look like Ava's writing-at least I wasn't scrawling with a crayon but I would have... **** (1/2*))"

The other Port was the 1964 Quinta do Noval Colheita Port. This was bottled in 2006. Its color was light mahogany with a very bright, fresh tasting, candiedt fruit that's very intense and nutty. I enjoyed its fragrant bouquet of citrus peel, caramel, and dark chocolate. Not incredibly powerful, but powerful enough, which was good because it had brilliant finesse. Each sip between puffs of the Cuban Partagas Robusto was simply delicious. A-. "64 Colheita tawny-Wow! What a treat with desert-one of the best tawnies I have ever had Soft but hard hitting acid backbone-rare to get this level of complexity in a tawny- 40 year? When bottled? **** 1/2*"

So we ended the dinner very happy and satisfied, despite being a bit wet and cold as it was a dark and stormy night, the first storm of winter finally arrived.

Posted by Alex Bernardo at 07:43 PM | Permalink

Like a lot of wine enthusiasts these days I and my friends at the BNO (boys’ night out) have been troubled by the escalating prices of our favorite beverage. Call it the euro strengthening, the failing dollar, the Chinese and Russian buying spree, the sub-prime collapse, etc. etc. as factors for the price inflation. But one thing is clear we’re not gonna take it lying down. Solution? Buy “off-years”.

If nothing else it's clear that the BNO has contributed immensely in us becoming experts on finding gems overlooked by the score pimps (to quote Matt) allowing us to buy even more wine even in these inflated times. This night of the Burgundy Off-Years is Exhibit A.

Kudos and thank you to Steve for the hospitality and the great food. I swear you can't eat better beef in the Peninsula than at Steve's. It was simplicity itself—prime rib from Pape’s grilled in the outdoor rotisserie for about an hour—yet brilliant. With the crunchy salad, his signature potato fritters, and the slow-cooked croutons Steve yet again proves he's the master of the yummy, no foo foo kinda food that Kevin always clamors for.

As for the wines, there were 6 of us vs. 9 bottles opened. An equitable and democratic ratio. A couple of bottles barely escaped sentencing. The 69 Chambolle and the 97 Clinet Pomerol.

So here are my impressions. Another refreshing Prosseco starter, with the Drusian Prosecco NV, on another warm evening. Nice call. Its fruitiness went well with salty Marcona almonds.

The 1989 Jadot Corton-Charlemagne was the color of young Sauternes, and started out with marzipan, fino sherry, and roasted nuts; then exploded with citrus and pear, buttered corn and minerals. Wow! Comments: "great with the sushi" (I totally agree) "regal" (Kevin) "opulent and sporty" (Steve) We score it 4

2000 Groffier Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Hautes-Doix. Loads of ripe cherries, earthy spice, cola nut. Great energy. Seductive as one might expect from Chambolle. And though deceptively soft-flavored I expect it to evolve for many more years. My only knock is it lacks a bit of grace for a premier cru. Comments: "just beginning to enter peak" "big surprise upside" "expecting green (for 2000) but very approachable" "won't get any better". (Kevin). “I felt the 2000 Groffier is that fine blond 18-year-old lass by Steve's river (a creek actually) who will be giving us her tender side for the next 15 years.” (Matt) We score it 3+

2003 Clos des Lambrays Morey St. Denis Les Loups. Fleshy, meaty, lush concentrated stewed fruits with noticeable oak and seems to lack enough grip. But way too young and may yet surprise. Comments: "California wine" (Lenny)". Group score 2+

1982 Henri Jayer Echezeaux. Super elegant and amazing focus and length. Well-evolved mature flavors of tart cherries, mushroom, game, soil, and beets. Fantastic sustained flavors, freshness and grip that never let up or faded throughout the evening. It may lack flesh but not intensity and spirit. "Wine of the night" (Lenny) and I concur. And this is an off year for Jayer 4+

1972 Bernard Grivelet Chambertin Clos de Beze. Impressive concentration and power for a wine approaching 40 years from an off year! Its why Chambertin gets the big bucks. Fleshy, flavorful, and great with the beef. Comments: "Mister Ed horse draft going on" (Matt, who else?) 3

1973 Louis Latour Corton Grancy. For bouquet this was hands down the most pleasurable. A combination of cherries, balsamic, cedar, peppercorn. The fruit is drying somewhat and the tartness is starting to dominate. "Better 10 years ago" (Kevin), but there is still ample flavors and the elegance is nice. 3

1983 Santenay Leroy. Darkly colored, muscular, lean, sinewy, and firm. What it lacks in charm is made up for by its energy and graceful flavors. I score it 3

1978 Martin Ray California Pinot Noir. This was darkly colored and still appeared strong but it was showing hints of TCA and the VA was starting to take over.

Posted by Alex Bernardo at 04:15 PM | Permalink

The K-man is disgusted with California wines post-‘80s, yet he has the best collection of California wines that I know of. In fact, Kevin is that increasingly rare breed of wine collector who has bought wine based on his taste not on scores.

Kevin has collected wine for decades, not overnight like some of these young gazillionaires who buy out Christie’s and John Kapon—a caveman with a huge trust fund can do that. His “old bitch cellar” as his friends have nicknamed it is amazing, not so much for sheer size, but for its discriminating personal selections. Kevin can pull out First Growths from all great vintages of the past half century, that's easy enough to do. What really amazes me is that he also collected other classed growths from off-vintages that have turned out to be overlooked gems—we refer to them endearingly as “glasscoaters” in our BNO (boys’ night out) group. This kind of collecting is brilliant connoisseurship.

And it’s not only the major wine regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Port, and Barolo that Kevin has pursued. He has old vintages of Mas de Daumas Gassac and Domaine Tempier. Score-monkeys today wouldn’t even know who those producers are.

So one fine day in March I received a surprise email notice from Kevin about the next BNO. It was something like a call to arms—“I’m mad as hell and I’m not gonna take it anymore!”

I don’t know if it was the Ides of March or he just got tired of reading James Laube’s tasting notes, but he issued an invite, which read more like a challenge, that the next BNO will be at his place and that the theme is pre-1987 California Cabernet Sauvignon. No one should even think of bringing any overripe, tannin-challenged Napa Cabernet from the 1990s or 2000s. In fact, Kevin had all the wines lined up in his head and they’re all coming from his cellar. It will be the first one-man retrospective for the BNO. I said to myself, bring it on!

Good dolmas like these with bits of lamb inside are the best pairing with aged California Cabernets...

And nothing like char-grilled steak with old Cabernets

The evening started with a magnum of Prosecco, A.G. Ferrari, very cool; it’s the perfect aperitif in the warm afternoon. I will not score this one, suffice it to say that it is very good and it surprised me that it came from Ferrari Foods.

Steve brought dolmas and patés which were terrific with the old Cabernets to follow.

The first flight consisted of a contrasting pair of perfectly cellared wines. Louis Martini’s1970 California Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon “Special Selection” from Ben’s cellar, the only wine in the evening not from the K-man, was amazing for its freshness and youth. Bright ruby red with a slight bricking around the rim, it gave a perfumy leafy and Bordeaux vegetal bouquet. Many agreed it is still “unyielding” and “tight”; after all, Ben’s cellar is like the arctic, wines age there at a glacial pace. Ben explained that Louis Martini aged 50% of the wine in wood and the other 50% in stainless steel and then afterwards blended the two together for the final wine. Martini was the first winemaker in Napa to perform this élevage. I thought it was wonderfully balanced (“12 ½ % Alcohol” read the label) opening up with delicious plum and cassis flavors as well as licorice and tea. Well-concentrated and elegant, I would like to sit down with this wine again when it has been sufficiently decanted as Ben recommends. 3+? (90+?).

The other wine in the flight needed no long decanting as it was jumping out of the gates. 1968 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon “Private Reserve Georges de la Tour”, Beaulieu Vineyard made by the greatest California winemaker, André Tchelitscheff, was darker than the Martini and seduced with intoxicating aromatics of blackberry, tea leaf, mint and tobacco. Opulent, velvety, and utterly juicy, this powerful wine swept me off my feet. 4 (95).

The next flight was epic. It was a shootout of Iliad proportions. Joe Heitz’s 1974 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvigon “Martha’s Vineyard Anniversary Vintage” was the most opulent version of this wine that I’ve tasted. Its famed eucalyptus signature was almost masked by a density of fruit that grew on the palate, tasting ripe and sweet and holding sway for a long time before releasing a dollop of tea leaf and eucalyptus and secondary flavors of licorice, oreo cookies, and gravel. This brought the house down. I’ve always thought that the greatness of the ’74 Heitz Martha’s was in its power and longevity, but it lacked sophistication. Yet, this bottle showed surprising expressiveness. 5 (100)

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A worthy challenger to the Heitz was the 1974 Napa Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, Mayacamas Vineyards. Initially tight, with some coaxing the wine opened up to a decadent range of aromas that were earthy and floral. Violets were redolent. What a contrast to valley floor Cabernets! A powerful Cabernet that glided on the palate and spoke in low, sweet tones of lush blackberries and gentle, spicy riffs of tobacco and tea. 4 (95)

The first bottle of 1974 Cabernet Sauvignon “Reserve” Robert Mondavi was unfortunately tainted. My heart sank. I was dying to drink this wine again as it was nearly ten years ago the last time I had it and it surprised me with its remarkable depth. Kevin casually asked, “Should I open another bottle?” No one replied. I may never get another chance and I sat next to Kevin, so I boldly told him, yes, please, let’s open another bottle. So a second bottle of this ’74 Mondavi Reserve was opened. After rinsing my glass I helped myself to a good pour of this fresh bottle. I smiled. Oh yes, this was it, all that I hoped for. This was a complete wine. The aromatics were profound, classic Cabernet currants with underlying earth and menthol, rust and leather. Gorgeous ripe flavors brimming with blackberry fruit, iron, eucalyptus, and dark chocolate. Generous but moved with grace and finished with sweet, dusty tannins. I’m in awe of this bottle. It was half-jokingly suggested that we open another bottle of this and the Heitz Martha’s and go mano-a-mano. Wouldn’t that be something? 5 (100)

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Almost everything seemed anticlimactic after those monumental 1974s. Maybe the ‘74s should have been placed last. The 1975 Sterling Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, while possessing some savory fruit, tasted harsh, a bit tart, and somewhat medicinal. 2 (85). The 1975 Joseph Phelps Insignia made of 86% Merlot was more interesting for its ripe character. Matt and Steve agreed that it was like Pebble on the 18th hole by the fire, cozy and warm, chocolates and cream. A typical Insignia—simple, comfort wine that lavishes good fruit. 3 (90)

But it’s not over until it’s over. The next two wines that came up rival the ‘74s in every way. The 1979 “Volcanic Hill” Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Creek is right up my alley delivering mature, classic Napa Cabernet flavors in heaping portions: ripe black currants, mint, tea leaf, and earthy spice. Sweet and elegant, very well poised, very cool. 4 (95).

What followed next is a wine that blew me away and, perhaps, another reason for drinking the ‘74s last. The 1971 Cabernet Sauvignon “Reserve”, Robert Mondavi is a most singular wine and in many ways an atypical Napa wine because the style is Médoc-like. Unfiltered and the first vintage for this “reserve” bottling, it is a single-vineyard wine and a true blended wine, with a high proportion of Cabernet Franc, as much as 30% or more it is said, and aged in 100% French oak. The aromas soared magnificently—a clear, precise, penetrating, yet indescribable scent of heavenly euphoria. I guarantee, you won't smell anything like this from any California wine. Eucalyptus, sweet cassis, earth, spices, violets, Havana leaf, and lots of cola. The powerful bouquet never faded, but seemed to even increase in intensity as the wine opened up. On the palate it was balanced and well-proportioned, and content to allow the bouquet to lead. Ripe, rich in tannins, and virtually seamless. 5 (100)

Finally, the 1979 Cabernet Sauvignon “Eisele Vineyard”, Joseph Phelps Vineyards to wrap up the ’79 flight. Simple and uncomplicated, it mesmerized with its rich, soft, plump black and cherry fruit flavors that remain bright and fresh as the wine approached its fourth decade. 3 (90).

The 1979 vintage is a wonderful finalé for the greatest decade in California Cabernets. What a glorious evening! My greatest California wine night. How awesome for all the wines to taste fresh without any signs of fading soon: proof not only of the wines’ longevity, but also of their impeccable provenance. An inspired tasting courtesy of a most inspiring collector. Thank you, Kevin.

Posted by Alex Bernardo at 11:27 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

There is a great quote from Christian Moueix by writer Andrew Jefford: “I’m a traditionalist, even if I’m not very old yet. Which is to say that I respect terroir. I respect the weather. I’m against those new technologies, which I think have the big danger of losing the finesse and the elegance and the subtlety which for me make Bordeaux unique. And the easiness of drinking a great Bordeaux when, as a couple, you can easily drink a bottle without becoming tired. These new technological wines are so thick that you really have trouble swallowing them. We are entering the competition of the muscles rather than the brain. So, for me, that new approach in Bordeaux is a big mistake. Which does not mean that the new school will not win. I fear that they will win. Which will be to Bordeaux’s disadvantage.”

“I respect the weather.” Indeed, this is the key quote for me, which is to say, loving the surprise and the variety of expression of each vintage. As big, ripe vintages have become the norm consumers obsessed with high scores appreciate ONLY those years, while producers pandering to this market strive to emulate such vintages each year, succeeding in producing lots of artificial-tasting wines.

Our BNO (boys’ night out) group went “off-tangent” recently and opened some delightful, eye-opening Bordeaux from vintages that wine critics find mainly useful for unloading their 80 points. We found that Bordeaux’s unsung white wines do very well in these off-vintages, while the reds are leaner and more focused. This is my kind of Bordeaux. For all the times we’ve done Bordeaux, some of us felt, I included, this was both the most eye-opening and enjoyable of all.

Lenny: “My favorite tasting of the year! Seriously, I was thinking same as Alex: What a great learning experience. Not only going in-depth on the vintage but across regions."

Kevin: “I am done being so damn pushy on White Bordeaux. You guys deserve better than to let me push a varietal agenda I happen to prefer. Who do I think I am! What nerve! I will not push the call for diversity White Bordeaux agenda any further. Nuff said.”

Eric (on the slew of personal items left behind his place after the dinner): “Any thoughts on a correlation between number of items left behind and what a good time everyone had?”

We struck gold pairing a great selection of white Bordeaux and Steve’s grilled oysters on the half-shell that were doused with his magic sauce. Bordeaux’s coast, particularly around Cap Ferret, teems with oyster farms, so the region’s wines are a natural accompaniment to these tasty bivalves. I’ve enjoyed washing down oysters with various Chablis, Sancerre, Muscadet, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc, but hands down this is my ultimate white Bordeaux/oyster experience.

Steve's grilled oysters, yummy!

The 2000 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux had an oily, almost “bacon fat” mouthfeel, with luscious flavors of almond, pear, grapefruit, and minerals. Rich, bone dry, and very exquisite. The ripeness of the vintage translates not into excess fruitiness, but in a fullness in the mouth. This is a big Pavillon Blanc that is remarkably thirst-quenching.

The wine was focused, my camera was not

I also loved the 2001 Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc. A classic Graves and a fine vintage for this wine. Lively floral, citrus blossom scents, followed by crunchy Sauvignon Blanc freshness and charming, fruity energy. Irresistible now.

Ditto

Another Graves, the exalted 2002 Laville Haut-Brion, the white of La Mission Haut-Brion, came next. As can be expected, this was regal, divine, fabulously complex and structured to age for a long time. Consisting mostly of Semillon, with a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, it is unique among white Bordeaux for this reverse cepages. Intense citrus, lime oil aromas. Beautiful concentration of fruit, mineral, and even spice. Elegantly dry and impeccably balanced, with glorious length on the finish. It just gets better and better in the glass.

All the reds were served at table with the delicious warmth of Eric’s comfort dish—a hodgepodge of “left-over” prime-rib, mushrooms, and root vegetables. I must say this pairing really worked, as it matched with the earthy flavors of the Bordeaux.

Eric's "hodgepodge" comfort food

1999 Leoville-Las-Cases was terrific, displaying classic Las-Cases sinewy masculinity. Lovely cassis. Brooding, muscular, and reminds me a lot of the '88 but this could be better. Someone said “fruit is lacking”, but I disagree as this is the underlying character of Las-Cases. More “fruity” vintages like 1990 and 2000 simply need time to mature and show that underneath the fat there is this lean, powerful athlete.

As I see it, the 1999 Palmer is the consensus great success of this vintage as it’s the first wine one thinks of when you utter 1999 Bordeaux, much in the same way as ’61 Lafite, ’45 Mouton, or ’59 Margaux. Palmer is not opulent or dense, and this is why some drinkers may never get it. I’ve had the ‘99 Palmer twice before—this is the tightest I’ve experienced it, which may suggest the state of the 1999s right now. But this is definitely deeply fruited and simply refined and classy. All the Margaux goodness is there, plus a firmness that may well prove that it’s another '83 in the making.

I would say the most pleasant surprise for me was how much better than expected the 1999 Montrose is. On the surface, a surprisingly tame Montrose. Sweet, dense, and smoky fruit, but the underlying tannins showed up later in the glass. Nicely balanced. This should mature very well.

The 1999 Clinet is what you’d expect an outstanding Pomerol should be—a dense, sweet, fleshy wine. I think here we see how fitting Michel Rolland's method is when applied to his hometown of Pomerol and to the Merlot. Beautiful concentration. Packed with extracts—coffee, blueberry, blackberry, herbal tones, and clay—that offer immediate pleasure.

Though Palmer’s success is not duplicated in the 1999 Pavillon Rouge, this a sumptuous wine, forward and lush with soft, juicy blackberry, and minerally flavors. It slips down very easily. Enjoy the moment. Its overall freshness and perfume make it a fleeting beauty.

I must say that after drinking these wonderful 1999s I was not too thrilled with the 2002 Cos d’Estournel. But then again only a handful of Cos has impressed me. I usually find it a bit sweet and lacking grace. This ‘02 shows concentration, but is muddled and unrefined. It lacks the cleanness, purity and unforced, relaxed extraction of the '99s. It may be a sign of how things are changing in Bordeaux, as much of the Bordelais seem to be mimicking a vintage of the century each year.

Finally, the 1985 Quinta do Noval. Not a terribly complex or powerful vintage, but Noval’s seductive fruit is there in this forward-drinking Port. Crushed red fruits, raspberry coulis with leather, cedar, and pepper. Perfect with the cigars.

Posted by Alex Bernardo at 10:51 AM | Permalink