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I had dinner with friends recently to cheer up one of them who will be married very soon. We decided to check out Archipelago, a new restaurant near my neighborhood that features a deliciously eclectic menu of French, Asian, and American inspired dishes that has become a hot trend in restaurant cuisine these days. Check out places like Coi, Poleng Lounge, Unicorn, Ame, O Chame, Junnoon, Pres a Vi, and Va de Vi. It’s no surprise that these restaurants are favorite haunts of wine guys as their creative dishes lend themselves to exciting wine pairings.

We started with a brilliant bottle of André Ostertag’s 2004 Alsace Muscat Fronholz. Very lovely. It smelled of sweet gardenia and tasted of lychees and ripe pears, yet, tasted dry and quite crisp. I love how all these exotic flavors blend harmoniously, and also how they made my mouth water for food.

The Cava Brut “Selección Millennium”, Ondarre NV purchased from Bar Basseri in Pamplona during a recent trip to northern Spain was even better than I remembered it. A big Cava, rich, mouthfilling creamy goodness with lime peel freshness, crisp minerality, and classy elegance.

Richter’s 1995 Mosel Riesling Auslese Graacher Domprobst tasted and smelled of minerally slate and juicy ripe red apples and pear with herbal notes. Medium sweetness for an Auslese and well-balanced by crisp acidity. Vibrant and lengthy in the finish.

All of these whites went perfectly with plates of fresh, briny oysters; fried, crispy-skinned rolls of Philippines lumpia; Philippines ceviché-style kinilaw of raw tuna; and seared foie gras with sweet, tangy cranberry chutney.

For our first red, there was the perfectly drinking and still youthful 1996 Meursault Premier Cru Blagny Rouge “La Pièce sous le Bois”, Domaine Joseph Matrot. One of my favorite Burgundies. Fragrant earthy sous bois with red fruit scents. Elegant, soft black cherry, cinnamon flavors with notes of pepper and tea leaf. Juicy and fresh.

Next up was the 1993 Latricières-Chambertin, Maison Remoissenet Pere et Fils. Still a youthful wine, endowed with good concentration and rich tannins. Whiffs of asphalt and stones amidst the spicy red fruit scents. Earthy, black cherry flavors. Not profound, but sleek and powerful.

Burgundy lovers describe Côte-Rôtie as being somewhat Burgundian in character, so it was not a bad idea to follow up the Burgundies with the 1990 Côte-Rôtie, Domaine Gallet. The bouquet of this wine was intense and surreal, conjuring scents of lavender, tar, leather, roast beef, and crushed berries. Ripe, fleshy, and soft on the palate; not so profound but seductive, and definitely charming.

I enjoyed all these reds with a large plate of roasted rack of lamb that was fatty, juicy, and tender, done with an indeterminable sweet, spicy, earthy sauce that worked with the wines.

And to refresh the palate at the end we popped a bottle of 2000 Champagne Brut “Cuvée Angeline”, J. Lassalle that made me feel like starting dinner all over again. Toasty fresh-baked bread aromas. Creamy and mouthfilling, with well-focused, elegant fruity and minerally flavors that are as crisp as a thin sheet of ice.

I can’t think of any other Asian-themed restaurant with a full-time pastry chef, especially a brilliant one like Lourie Tatad who prepared for us a dazzling array of desserts and obliged us with a few special requests, including sugared churros accompanied by a dark liquid chocolate dip; slices of caramelized apples with a choice of sprinkles of marshmallows, spiced peanuts, and chocolate; and tiny nuggets of pure chocolate truffles.

During all the excitement we nearly forgot the bottle of 2000 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly “Silex”, Didier Dagueneau. Thank goodness, this was supposed to be the highlight bottle of the evening! Well, it didn’t disappoint, especially after an exciting array of wines. Rich, pungent flavors of stone fruits infused with fresh herbs, green vegetables, and minerals. The palate is persistent and crystalline, tasting of the rocks and minerals where the fruit came from.

Archipelago
1107 Howard Avenue
Burlingame, CA 94010
650.348.3888

Posted by Alex Bernardo at 09:55 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

I got a call from Steve yesterday to check out the newly opened Porterhouse restaurant (formerly Bogie’s) in San Mateo. I had no plans for the evening, except to finish more leftovers at home, so why not? Not a bad idea to get the New Year started right.

I brought a bottle of 2002 Mercurey Rouge Premier Cru, Domaine Meix Foulot. I arranged for Steve’s happy visit to the domaine just a month ago, hence I thought this bottle would be a good conversation piece. The Burgundy shimmered in the glass and gave scents of meat and game to go along with the red fruits. Beefy, austere and lean it was an appropriate and mouthwatering start to the steaks that were about to follow. Meanwhile, the appetizers of roasted quail and prunes, steak tartare, and egg rolls were delicious with the wine.

Steve brought two beautiful Napa Cabs: the 1980 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Veeder Winery and the 2001 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, Grace Family Vineyards.

The Mount Veeder Cabernet had an almost intoxicating bouquet of mint, lavender, sage, and cedar which never flagged and even seemed to gain intensity over the three-hour dinner. On the palate it was refined and the black currant flavors had evolved into elegant austerity. Though on the wane, the wine was faultless and has aged regally.

In contrast, the Grace was slower in waking up. Steve had it decanted when we sat down, and this helped greatly in coaxing it out. When it opened up later it was simply gorgeous. Refined, understated, and well-proportioned despite being generous and well-concentrated, the currant flavors were sweet and fresh with tannins seamlessly integrated. Grace is never the oversize blockbuster like the other Napa cult Cabernets and this 2001 is the epitome of its elegant style. Very lovely to drink now, but I would guess better still in another ten years.

My New York steak ordered medium-rare was tasty though a bit on the dry side. I tasted Steve’s Porterhouse and that was better meat and better cooked. Bill’s rack of Colorado lamb was the winner, juicy, flavorful, and perfectly cooked.

Porterhouse
60 E. 3rd Avenue
San Mateo, CA
650.579.5911

Posted by Alex Bernardo at 06:28 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Chef Patrick Farjas has come up with a strong menu day after Thanksgiving. Very hard to resist venison, especially this time of the year.

Full French Dinner

“Le Puy” French Lentill Soup with Basil
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Lobster Tail Thermidor $48.00

Venison Medaillions Grand Veneur, Chestnut, Red Currant, Green Peppercorn $48.00

Seared Duck Breast Chanterelles Mushrooms and Persimom Sauce $42.00
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Salad of the Season, and Cheese
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Pineapple Creme Brulee

Flourless Chocolate Decadence Cake

Assorted Fruit Plate

Reservation Only 6:00PM and 7:30PM
650 343 0907
DAY BREAK GOURMET CAFÉ/RESTAURANT
136 N. San Mateo Drive
San Mateo, CA 94401

Posted by Alex Bernardo at 07:17 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Full French Dinner

Homemade Raviolo with Cream Cheese, Smoked Salmon and Herbs
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Baked Artic Char with Coconut Milk Sauce And Caviar $38.00

Filet of Beef Wellington with truffle Sauce $44.00

Duck Legs Confit on a Bed of French Lentill from “Le Puy” $39.00
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Salad of the Season, and Cheese

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Pumpkin Creme Brulee

Individual Pecan Pie

Assorted Fruit Plate

Dana’s Chocolate Brownies with French Vanilla Ice Cream

By Reservation Only 6:00PM and 7:30PM
650.343.0907
DAY BREAK GOURMET CAFÉ/RESTAURANT & CATERING
136 N. San Mateo Drive
San Mateo, CA 94401

Posted by Alex Bernardo at 12:13 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Full French Dinner

Spicy Avocado Soup with Fried Tortillas
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Fillet of Sole Veronique, Gewurztraminer wine Sauce and Pelled Fresh Grapes $39.00

Lean New York Steak, Black Pepper and Cognac Cream Sauce $42.00

Chicken Breast Roulade, Port Wine and Mushroom Sauce $36.00
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Salad of the Season, and Cheese
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Banana Flambee Creme Brulee

Dana’s Famous Carrot Cake with Creme Chantilly

Assorted Fruit Plate

Spicy Purple Ginger and Dried Apple Ice Cream

Reservation Only 6:00PM and 7:30PMDAY
650.343.0907
BREAK GOURMET CAFÉ/RESTAURANT & CATERING
136 N. San Mateo Drive, San Mateo, CA 94401

Posted by Alex Bernardo at 08:07 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Full French Dinner

Baby Octopus on a bed of Linguine and Seaweed
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Grilled Veal Chop with Hedgehog Mushrooms $42.00

Crispy Skin Striped Bass with a Saffron Risotto served with a Tomato Coulis $38.00

Grilled Lamb Loin & Chop, Honeydew Melon and Mint Chutney $41.00
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Salad of the Season, and Cheese
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Strawberry Creme Brulee

Seasonal Berries in a Orange Liquor Sabayon

Assorted Fruit Plate

Chocolate Mousse Tresor Chest

Reservation Only 6:00PM and 7:30PM
DAY BREAK GOURMET CAFÉ/RESTAURANT & CATERING
136 N. San Mateo Drive, San Mateo, 94401,
650 343 0907

Posted by Alex Bernardo at 07:37 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

I had a great time with friends last Monday night at Left Bank in San Mateo. Is it just my imagination or is this French restaurant, planted in the middle of a strip shopping center off Highway 101 in San Mateo, taking on some patina of a Parisian brasserie over the years?

We were there to take advantage of the restaurant’s brilliant Monday half-price wine list, plus August’s Provence dinner special prix fixe ($23.00 per) of Bourride des Pêcheurs (a bouillabaisse-type dish with rockfish, mussels, clams, crab, prawns, sliced potatoes, celery, leeks and fennel, thickened with cream) and a cheese plate of Banon (a robust, creamy Provençal cheese dipped in eau-de-vie and wrapped in chestnut leaves). The bourride was better than I expected, while the cheese was oozingly soft and well-ripened. Altogether, a terrific dinner menu for the price.

Bourride des Pêcheurs

The wines? Well, we did bring a few bottles of our own, but from the list we ordered a 2004 Pouilly-Fumé “La Moynerie”, Michel Redde et Fils (half-price off the listed $43) that was aromatic, crisp, ripe, juicy, and vibrant—a stunning pairing with the dozen Fanny Bay oysters we ordered.

We ordered another bottle, also a Loire, from the famous biodynamic producer, Nicolas Joly, which is his 2002 Savennières “Les Clos Sacrés”—an excellent wine, though still very, very young and quite sharp. But with the creamy and somewhat pungent bourride, this powerful Chenin paired very nicely. At half price the normal list of $59, this Nicolas Joly was a steal.

At the end of the meal, we kicked in $50 per person, including a healthy tip for our enthusiastic waiter, David. For sure, I will be dining at the Left Bank again soon on another Monday!

Left Bank San Mateo
1100 Park Place
San Mateo CA 94403
650.345.2250

Posted by Alex Bernardo at 10:27 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The commune of Riceys in the southern portion of the Champagne region has been producing for centuries tiny quantitites of the world's most rare rosé. Said to be the favorite of Louis XIV, this rosé is so rare that even in Champagne, let alone in France, few have heard of it. To my knowledge none is exported.

I was visiting Champagne last March and I took my buddy Robert with me. He decided to stay around a little longer after I've finished my appointments to do some R & R and hunt down this rare Rosé de Riceys. He got lucky as he found one wine store that stocked a few bottles of it. The proprietor was quite impressed at Robert for even asking for it.

Robert lugged the bottle back home and when we decided to have a bite together one day before watching a Giants ballgame he brought the bottle of Rosé de Riceys with him. This was probably the only bottle of this rosé in the country.

We sat at the bar of Coco 500, Loretta Keller's newly renovated hotstpot in the south of Market. We dug in a couple of the small plates that were both superb. One was the COCOmole “taco” ($4.00), a refined take on mole made with braised beef cheeks on crisp taco shells. Every piece was delicious. The other plate was a version of the Provence standard, a brandade served with fennel crackers ($6.00). Another homerun!

Both small plates were superb with the particular taste of the Rosé de Riceys. Made of 100% Pinot Noir, this rosé is made by macerating the Pinot until the taste of Riceys is achieved, a procedure that requires not only a skilled winemaker but also one who knows the precise taste of Riceys.

The rosé has a deep cherry nose, very earthy and Pinot-like, it reminded me of the Pinot Noirs I've had from Alsace. The initial taste was of black cherries then layers fanned out revealing fresh herbs and lavender. Very delicate yet intense on the palate. Substantial for a rosé, hence the wine was a perfect accompaniment to our small plates.

Coco500
500 Brannan Street
San Francisco, CA
415.543.2222

Posted by Alex Bernardo at 08:03 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)